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Blend of cultures lures adventurous





Thursday, December 27, 2007

 

By Sherri Williams

 

The Columbus Dispatch

 

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With a mix of east African, Italian and south Asian flavors, Darbo Restaurant offers an interesting alternative to pull diners out of a rut.

 

The North Side establishment, which specializes in Somali cuisine, has a diverse range of entrees, from grilled salmon fillet to chicken a la diabla -- sauteed leg quarters served with carrots, onions, peppers and tomatoes.

 

Among the best entrees is the grilled chicken steak. A chicken breast is marinated overnight in a mixture of seasonings to create mildly spicy tandoori and Cajun flavors.

 

Served in strips with rice and diced carrots, the result makes a hearty meal with flavor to match.

 

Adventurous diners can try authentic Somali dishes such as beef or chicken kalankal and grilled goat.

 

Influences from Italy, the nation that colonized Somalia, can be found, especially in pasta dishes.

 

Every meal is served with a banana, which is to be eaten with the rest of the food to offset spicy flavors.

 

The jabati -- a sweet, flaky layered bread served warm -- is a must.

 

And the tea -- with green coriander, cinnamon and ginger powder -- is sublime. The beverage is served only before noon, making an early lunch worth the trip.

 

A visit to Darbo, which opened four years ago, immerses diners in Somali culture. Artworks on every wall give diners a glimpse of the nation from which about 35,000 Columbus residents emigrated.

 

"I wanted to create an environment where a person experiences the whole culture -- food, tradition and art," owner Yassin Matan said.

 

"Come with an open mind," he said. "Be adventurous and experience a whole new taste."

 

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Source: The Columbus Dispatch , December 27, 2007